This Is Africa (TIA)

This is Africa, lovingly referred to as TIA, is a phrase and running joke amongst nearly everyone who travels through eastern and southern African countries.  It explains everything from the impractical, ridiculous and just plain confusing things that happen on that part of the continent - Even our guides would shrug their shoulders, laugh and say TIA to many of the inexplicable circumstances we experienced - Here's just a short list and my fellow travelers can jump on in with so many others that I missed!  :)

- When a downpour hits your camp site and the rain knocks the wifi out.  Why?  Because TIA.
- When you try to buy a certain visa at a land crossing between two countries and get denied.  Then the 5th person behind you buys the exact same visa you just got denied from the same agent.  Why?  TIA!
- When you are driving down a massively pot-holed road while looking at a brand new paved highway that is blocked off from cars.  Why?  TIA!
- When you get off the ferry on the island of Zanzibar, walk through a security scanner, set off all the alarms and flashing lights, yet get waved through without a second glance by the security officer.  Why bother screening people?  TIA!
- When you break down on the way to the Nairobi airport and your driver shrugs, slowly reaching for his cellphone, while your panic sets in.  He tells you, "This is Africa!" as if that will make you feel better about missing your flight...(Thankfully, I eventually made my flight.)

Moroccan Landscapes

When I originally planned to visit Morocco, I had only envisioned deserts and dunes in the country.  Instead, I have been consistently amazed at the varying landscapes we've explored over the past two weeks.  From rugged mountain villages covered with the changing leaves of fall to lush agriculture around riverbeds to a rocky coastline, Morocco has a surprise around every corner...

 

Marrakech

A trip to Marrakech would not be complete without copious amounts of shopping.  There are so many handcrafted goods everywhere, from leather bags to wool, woven rugs to silver jewelry, it's hard to know where to start (or stop!)  Here are some of the sights from the Marrakech souks, the craftspeople and the brilliant colors in every direction:

The Coastal Town of Essaouira

After the High Atlas Mountains, we journeyed next to the coastal town of Essaouira for a respite from the cold and some beach time.  With a fishing wharf and a long sandy beach (perfect for my sunrise runs), we wandered around the cobble stone streets and shopped in the colorful souks.  

 

Olives!

Moroccan Mosaics

One of the most amazing sights in Morocco are the mosaic designs that cover nearly every interior wall, ceiling and floor of hotels, restaurants, shops and palace ruins.  There are literally millions of very small pieces, hand carved, that make up each of the mosaics.  They aren't large tiles with paint on them!  They are absolutely mesmerizing and here are just some of the ones we saw along the way:

 

The Hike to Aroumd

After a beautiful hour long hike, we arrived in the High Atlas Mountains to the village of Aroumd, surrounded by hundreds of apple trees and jagged mountain tops.  We spent the night in a local home, and despite the freezing cold, had a great night chatting around the fireplace and wrapped in Moroccan wool blankets.

 

Aït Ben Haddou Kasbah, a UNESCO World Heritage site

Such an incredible World Heritage Site - Ait Ben Haddou Kasbah.  We arrived as the sun was setting and the shadows danced across the sand buildings...And Game of Thrones shot scenes here too.  (Yes, Shirin, I thought of you and our binge watching!)

My roommate, Heidi from Holland, and I:

The view from the top of the Kasbah:

Videos of Morocco - Part 1

Some interesting video clips of life in Morocco...

A visit to a pottery manufacturer, where they spin the pottery on feet-propelled wheels:

A walk through the Fez medina:

A restaurant where we had dinner:

The Sahara Sand Dunes (with our guide's music playing in the background from the 4x4):

An abandoned village near the sand dunes:

A local group playing traditional music:

Sand Dunes of the Sahara Desert

After driving from Fez through the Middle Atlas Mountains, we arrived in the Sahara Desert.  We did a 4x4 tour through a few small villages and then took a bumpy camel ride to a desert auberge for a night.  It was endlessly quiet in the dunes and after hiking up to the top of a nearby one, I watched the sun set and the stars rise...

The scenic drive from Fez to the desert:

A woman cooking in her kitchen:

The community tent where we stopped and had tea:

Our guides:

Our camel trek:

Our auberge from above:

A Tour Through Fez

We wandered through the tight alleyways of Fez's medina and shopping area with a tour guide who weaved us past spice shops, Moroccan clothing and into a very old tannery where leather goods were made.  The guide mysteriously handed us fresh sprigs of mint as we entered the leather shop and told us to follow him.  After walking up a winding set of stairs, we emerged outside to the worst stench I have ever smelled and I quickly put the mint to my nose.  He explained that daily they use pigeon poop from hundreds of rooftops around the city to manipulate the leather during one step in the process.  After quickly taking a few pictures of the men working in the dying pools, I gagged and ran down the stairs as fast as I could to escape the smell!

While I could have spent the afternoon getting lost in the medina and people watching as donkeys brought in goods, parents hustled their children around and hawkers tried to sell their wares, I never want to smell anything like that ever again...

Fez, from above:

One of the alleys in the medina:

A storeowner and his shop:

A school where students study the Quran:

A public water fountain:

Another alleyway in the medina:

A sewer, working in his shop:

The dyeing pools in the tannery yard:

A donkey bringing in goat skins to the tannery: